Soooo. It happened. I landed on the moon and found that it was made of cheese, and now we will be importing cheese from the moon, and feed all the hungry people in Europe. Nahhh just kidding. Too cheesy maybe. My first hiking venture in the arctic circle. Wish I could brag about our five-day trekking on the ice cap and polar bears chasing us, but nope. What I did do was rent a locker at the small airport in Kangerlussuaq and took my apple, a water bottle, my beanie and mid layer jacket. Yep, you’ve got it. It was 4 deg Celsius and all I was wearing, one layer and my beanie. Which both became more of a mosquito protection layer than for the cold. Man oh man did I get attacked by a storm of mozzi’s when I attempt to summit the mountain behind the airport in the time between my flights. I have never seen so many mozzi’s in my life. Should I add aggressive! I have never seen so many aggressive mozzi’s in my life.
Kalaallit Nunaat. Grønland. Greenland. Groenland. What a place.
What an absolute privilege to embark on this very interesting journey. On my arrival in Narsaq harbour, I was greeted by my hosts with a rather interesting vehicle to transport my heavy luggage uphill to my little home for the next while. It was an old school pram with bouncy wheels and a massive big area to put things on and under. Did they call it their air mobile? I think so. As we pushed this up the hill towards the most beautiful mountain behind my cottage and we look back at the icebergs passing by in the fjord, my heart felt overwhelmed with the beauty of this moment. Wow. What an absolute absolute privilege. My heart is happy.
Life is slower here, as the beautiful icebergs passing by the slow pass life of Grønland daily… So about 30km from where I am, the icebergs breaks off the biggest glacier in the world called the Ice Cap. As it finds its way down the fjords, it turns and breaks and somethings get stuck, until it melted to nothing. Moving on a different pass than the life in Grønland. These colourful little timber structured homes, frame most views from anywhere in this small city with circa 1700 inhabitants. Love the inuit people group. To the ends of the earth…
A few days ago, we went out to a spot about an hours hike from the village. Now this is me and my two fellow traveling buddies. One from Germany and the other one from Switzerland. We met on the boat to this village and they have put up tent about 100m or so up in the valley. They happen to have a fishing rod and we wanted to go catch some Arctic Char – part of the salmon family. We hiked down to this side of the land that has an exposed area to the open fjord and a small rock ledge to get to deep water easily. It took about an hour and we had three decent size fishes. We kept them on a piece of iceberg that we collected from an iceberg that stranded not too far from our fishing spot. We also build a small shelter from the sun with a piece of drift wood and a flat rock over. This shelter is for the fish of course. So after we celebrated our potential dinner. We decided to get some fish for my hosts as well. After all it was them that gave us the information on where to go. You will not believe this, but all the fish just disappeared. Unfortunately after two hours we had to make a call and return to the village without fish for the hosts.
There is something about the quietness in this small town. But also the lack of night. Because it never really gets dark my body stays in this really confused state of being. Wonder if one can ever get use to this. Must be rather interesting here in the winter. Lots of darkness again. No wonder people here has a rather high rate of alcohol abuse. It constantly feels like I am taking an afternoon nap.
So my two traveling friends came over for dinner last night, awesome deal. They cooked and I washed the dishes. They went fishing again. We had a great time laughing at the lack of red tape in this country but the obsession with red tape also. They had to buy a very expensive fishing license. 600DKK for a month. Funny thing is the authorities in Nuuk, the capital, did not even know what to charge and what to give them, so we kind of suspects that they made stuff up. Gotta love the Swiss that wants to do all things to the book. Second thing, pretty amusing, as a South African I had to get a very expensive visa to enter Greenland. Ha! No one even checked or asked for my passport. How hilarious. But the one thing we kind of gathered are very important. Well two-fold, they allow only two drinks per person on any Air Greenland flight. They only sell alcohol here till 6pm. If it is 6:00:01 you will be refused.
I have lots still to say, but let us stop here for today and on the drinking topic. Lets raise a glass of arctic whiskey and say Skål!!